It’s far better to strip off the old caulk, giving an even, clean surface for the new caulk. This may have broken up in places where water can collect and it can harbor areas of mold and grime.
If the shower is old and hasn’t been cared for in the past, there may be layers of lumpy, bumpy built-up caulk. What happens if you caulk over old caulk? Follow the pack instructions on when you’ll be able to use the shower again. Although it quickly forms a skin, silicone caulk may need longer than one day to fully cure. Run the smoothing tool along the seam or use a finger dipped in dish detergent, then remove the painter’s tape. Run sealant along the joints, squeezing the handles evenly to release it. 'A few squeezes of the handles and you’ll be ready to go.’ 'Using a sealant gun is easy, but you might want to practice a little first to get an even bead of sealant,’ says Beth. Screw the nozzle to the cartridge and insert in the caulking gun. ‘You can always cut more afterwards if you find you need a bigger bead.’ ‘Start by cutting off a small amount,’ says Beth Pearce, Category Manager for Construction and Internal Building at B&Q (opens in new tab). Carefully cut the nozzle at a 45 degree angle. Trim off the end of the silicone sealant cartridge. The caulking area needs to be completely dry. To ensure you can apply the sealant neatly, stick strips of painter’s tape along the joints with a narrow gap between them to run the caulk. When dry, wipe all the joints with denatured alcohol on a cloth. If there’s any mold or mildew along the joints, this will come back to haunt you, so douse a cloth with a little bleach mixed with water and apply it, then rinse off. Finish off with a non-abrasive pad or, on delicate surfaces, a cloth dipped in denatured alcohol (methylated spirits). Pull off any remaining bits with pliers or tweezers or if they’re stuck fast, soften them up with sealant remover and scrape with the smoother tool. You can also tackle old caulk with a utility knife, box cutter or razor scraper, but angle the knife carefully to avoid cutting into the surfaces, or use the plastic razor we have recommended above. Apply it to all the previously caulked areas – inside and outside the shower – following the instructions on the pack, wait the recommended time (which could be up to three hours) then use a plastic scraper tool to scrape it away. To strip off the old caulk, use a sealant remover. This will also ensure your shoes don’t scratch the shower tray. Next put a dust sheet in the shower to catch the old caulk and ensure it doesn’t get into the drain. Check a few times while waiting in case the vinegar is damaging the surface. Put on your protective gear and deal with this first by soaking paper towels in vinegar and leaving them in place for around half an hour – cleaning with vinegar saves you buying more chemical cleaners. If you’re in a hard-water area, limescale may have built up around the joints.
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